First of all, I’d like to say that we wanted to avoid Lake Bled as much as possible. I’m sure it’s a magnificent place, but the number of tourists there does not make it attractive to us at all.
So, we chose to go to Lake Bohinj — it’s also a well-known place but much calmer. We stayed in the small village of Srednja vas v Bohinju, from where we could walk to the lake Bohinj and hike in the mountains.
We didn’t have a car, so we used public transport or walked everywhere.
From Ljubljana to the Alps
We took a train from the Ljubljana train station to the town of Bohinjska Bistrica, with a quick change in Jesenice.
Trains and buses are fairly regular, and you can check the schedule on Google Maps since public transport is integrated there.
We just checked the next train while having our morning coffee and went to the train station a bit early to buy the tickets.
From Bohinjska Bistrica to the lake
We were charmed by the little town of Bohinjska Bistrica, where we arrived by train. However, we still needed to get to our village, Srednja Vas v Bohinju, where we had rented a place.
We missed the bus that circulates between the villages in the area, and the next one didn’t come. :(
We met two Slovenian ladies who were also waiting for the bus. They said that you can walk there, and it would take 1.5 hours. I guess it’s not too bad, but we had heavy backpacks, so we suggested sharing a taxi. It was around 30 euros for four people for a 10-minute drive.
Lake Bohinj
On the first day, we walked from Srednja Vas v Bohinju to Lake Bohinj. It took us around an hour—very easy and flat, but with nice views.
On the way back, we discovered a very nice restaurant called Majerca. At first, we decided to have a glass of wine there, but the ambience was so cozy, and the daily menu sounded so good that we couldn't resist staying for lunch.
I couldn't recommend this place enough — everything was perfect! The food was amazing, the selection of wines was exactly what we were looking for, and the mountain view was the cherry on top.
We didn’t have a solid plan for our hike, so we just asked our host to recommend the closest route. She waved somewhere to the left and said, 'Just keep walking up, it’s nice there!'
She wasn’t lying—it was VERY nice up there. But unfortunately, you do have to follow some kind of path, and it’s better if it’s not the one on Google Maps.
What looked like a path on Google Maps turned out to be dense thickets that we couldn’t get through. So our 2-3 hour hike turned into a 7-hour trek.
I'll add a map in case it’s helpful for someone. The blue route is what Google suggested, and the green one is how it was in reality.
So, we ended up with an unexpected extra 3 hours of walking. Half of it was on steep paths, but we were rewarded with great views.
We also learned that it’s better to download maps.me, where routes seem to be more accurate and it works offline!
Once we reached our final destination, Planina Zajamniki, we had the best rest ever.
There was no one else there but us. We enjoyed the views, took a million pictures of alpine flowers, and had a nap on the soft grass.
We checked maps.me and were super excited about how fast and easy the way back was going to be — around 50 minutes, and all downhill.
Ha-ha-ha.
We saw a new sign directing us to our village and decided to follow it, even though the path wasn’t on maps.me. It seemed even faster (green line on the map), so we happily went for it. I guess that was a mistake...
The route was very steep, covered with thick layers of dry leaves hiding slippery rocks underneath. We moved very slowly because you could fall at any time.
I have zero pictures from that part because you literally couldn’t relax for a second. So instead of 50 minutes, it took us 2.5 to 3 hours but felt like an eternity. We were sooo tired!
My advice — maybe check routes before going on a hike so you know what to be prepared for.
Srednja Vas v Bohinju
On our last day, we decided to do nothing but chill.
We walked around, enjoyed the spring blossoms, and found a little factory where they produce cheese and yogurt — Bohinjska sirarna.
On the way back, we caught the bus to Bohinjska Bistrica, and from there, we took a bus to Ljubljana — it was easy and fast!